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The Site of Ancient Pergamum, Izmir, Turkey

pergamum

Town, Izmir vilayet (province), western Turkey, 50 miles (80 km) north of the city of Izmir (Smyrna). It shares the site of ancient Pergamum (q.v.), of which there are extensive ruins remaining. The modern town lies over the remains of the Roman city, while the remains of the ancient Greek city with its acropolis lie northeast across the Bergama River, on a high hill with terraced slopes. Greek ruins also lie on the western outskirts. The Archaeological Museum in town contains a large collection of artifacts from the area, ranging in age from Paleolithic to Byzantine. The town has cotton and leather industries, and in the surrounding area there is farming in cotton, tobacco, and grapevines.

Usually seen on a two day tour of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor or on an Aegean sea cruise, Pergamon (pop. 40,000) is the site of the ancient cultural city of the same name. Pergamon merits a visit because of its impressive ruins. The ruins include an acropolis with an Altar of Zeus, palaces, gymnasiums, temples, the world’s steepest amphitheater, an Aesculapium (ancient medical center) and a now empty library (it once held 200,000 volumes). Note the familiar symbol of medicine on the base of the Serpent Altar; Pergamon was the home of early medical theoretician Galen, whose teachings held sway for 1,500 years. Unfortunately, the most spectacular treasures from Pergamon can’t be seen there they’re at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, Germany. Allow a few hours to tour the ruins. 50 mi/80 km north of Izmir.

Bergama Zeus Altar
Built during the years 197-159 B.C. by Eumenes II, King of Pergammon, it was revealed by German archaelogists during excavations made after 1865 in Pergammon and the remains were sent to Berlin. It was restored in the Berlin State Museum and was opened to exhibition in 1871. After that date, the museum acquired the name Pergammon Museum.

Bust of Alexander the Great
This marble bust 42 cm in height was found during the excavations at Pergammon and dates back to 3rd century B.C. of the original busts of Alexander the Great made during his lifetime, none have reached us todaay, we have only found reproductions. The bust found in Pergammon is famous, it being more realistic than the one in Louvre Paris. (Istanbul Archaeological Museum)

Ancient City of Teimussa, Antalya

Directly east of today’s village of Ucagiz, this ancient town, in which nature and history complement each other, is one where the picturesque attains a beauty of which one can never get one’s fill. Just as we have no knowledge at all of Teimussa’s history, there is also no known coinage from the site. The existence of tombs bearing inscriptions in Lycian points to settlement prior to the fourth century B.C. Aside from an entry gate, a few simple foundations and some walls in the sea, all of the visible remains consist of tombs. Two rockcut tombs in the form of houses, their doors broken, can be seen in a spot near the store.

On the tomb at the right is the figure of a naked child; above the door is a Lycian inscription typical of the fourth century. Continuing directly east, one comes to a wide area covered with Lycian sarcophagi from the Roman period. It is interesting that inscriptions on some of them mention individuals from Cyaneae or Myra, and inscriptions have been found saying that people who desecrated the tombs would pay their fines to those cities. In all likelihood, Teimiussa was a small settlement tied administratively to these two cities. At the town’s eastern end one descends to a small quay via steps hewn from living rock. As a result of settling of the terrain, sone of Teimiussa’s ruins are now under water, a feature that gives the site added attraction.

Ancient City of Harran, Sanliurfa, Turkey

Also spelled Haran, Roman Carrhae, ancient city of strategic importance, now a village, in southeastern Turkey. It lies along the Balikh River, 24 miles (38 km) southeast of Urfa. The town was located on the road that ran from Nineveh to Carchemish and was regarded as of considerable importance by the Assyrian kings. Its chief cult in Assyrian times was that of the moon god. It is frequently mentioned in the Bible; Abraham’s family settled there when they left Ur of the Chaldeans (Genesis 11:31-32). In Roman times, Carrhae was the scene of a disastrous defeat of the Roman governor Crassus by the Parthians (53 BC; see Carrhae, Battle of) and of a later defeat of the emperor Galerius by the Persian king Narses (AD 297).

The ruins of the Ulu Cami (mosque) in Harran. This 8th century center of worship and study in the Islamic world is one of the most impressive ruins in the area. According to the Old Testament, Abraham resided here and his father Terah died here. Harran is known for its interesting cone and cubic shaped dwellings. They are made of clay and known to be naturally very suitable for the hot climate of the region. These mud brick houses are up to 4-5 metres high and this height is considered to be the other reason for cool and confortable inside conditions. The present-day town of Harran is about 50Kms to the south of Sanli Urfa, a southeastern province of Turkey.

According to the tradition, Abraham was moving from Ur to Canaan which was in Promised Land (Gen.11:35), when he rested in Harran. The town is surrounded by a city wall. Although the wall was restored in the 12th century A.D., only five of its 12 original gates have survived till today. The ancient settlement was on and around the hill in the center of the town. This part has not been excavated yet. On the way up the hill there are two doorposts with markers indicating that this place was “Aran’s House” from which Abraham took Sarah.

Inscriptions indicate that Harran existed as early as 2000 B.C. The place is known to be one of the most important cult centers of that time. The temple of the moon god Sin was here. Sin was one of the great gods of the Assurian Babylonian pantheon.

The roof of the temple was covered with cedar tree from Lebanon. During early periods Sin was represented with a long beard and a crescent above a horned tiara. This was transformed into a single crescent only during the following centuries. Worshipping Sin continued until 6th century A.D. in Harran.

Harran became the capital city to Assurians during the reign of king Assurbanipal in the 7th century B.C. The Roman army led by Crassus in 53 B.C. was defeated by the Parthians in front of Harran and Crassus was killed. In 217 A.D. (April 6th), Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius Cracalla was murdered here while he was on his way from Temple of Sin to the palace. Sin was an important god of Romans. A citadel was built in the 14th century in place of the Temple of Sin. This lies in the south-west quarter of the town.

The 8th century A.D. mosque called Great Mosque (Ulu Cami) which lies to the north slope of the hill. It dates back to the Omayad period. The tombstones of the Babylonian king Nabouid were found in this mosque and are on exhibition in the museum of Urfa today. The region has always been considered a very sipiritual ground by many cultures. The remains of the cult Holy Planet or Sabiers is only 60 Kms away from Harran. On an area with 1 Km radius there are various temples devoted to the cults of Sun, Moon, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn and Mercury. The Sabier cult maintained its existance until the 17th century A.D.

Ancient City of Cyaneae, Mugla, Turkey

Cyaneae is a Greek name meaning “dark blue”. It is not known why the city was given this name. It is certain however, that this was one of Lycia’s important cities, given it strategic location and its large settlement area. Although it is listed by almost all the ancient geographers, they give no information at all about it. What little knowledge we have comes from a few inscriptions. One of these concerns a wealthy citizen ofs Cyaneae named Jason. During the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius (138-161 A.D.) Jason is found donating money to the region’s cities and receiving the title of Lyciarches, or chairman of the Lycian League.

The city, situated atop a steep hill rising to the north of today’s village of Yavu, is enclosed on three sides by fortification walls. Only on the south, where natural barriers make access difficult, did the residents not feel the need for fortifications. These walls, which for the most part date to later periods, are of poor construction, employing reused materials gathered from here and there. Three standing gates on the north and west walls gave entrance to the city. Hidden among trees and brush on a hill that can be called the acropolis, are structural remains.

A Roman bath, consisting of compartments whose function is not yet known, can be seen in the southwest section of the hill. A little further on ıs a splendid fourth century B.C. sarcophagus, still partially buried, with a relief-carved lid a body inscribed in Lycian. Cyaneae’s best preserved structure is its second century A.D. theatre on the west of the acropolis.

Set in a natural slope, the cave, which rises on small polygonal blocks, numbers eleven tiers of seats, and probably held wooden supports for awnings unfurled to protect the spectators from the sun. The stage is in such a poor state of preservation that it yields no clue as to its construction. On the path between the theatre and the acropolis is the necropolis area containing hundreds of sarcophagi. Here one feels one has returned to an ancient era. Almost all of the sarcophagi which exist here, and a variety of forms not seen elsewhere in Lycia, are Roman in character. Rock cut tombs of early date are located on difficult to reach cliffs on the southern face of the hill.

A tomb resembling a simple lonic temple is especially interesting. According to the Greek inscription on its door, the actual sarcophagus belonged to one Perpenesis and his wife, while the remainder of the tomb was divided among their relatives. The inscription also states that the tomb was not to be opened without the consent of the mindis, apparently an official organization that protected the tombs from vandalism and robbery. The tomb has been dated to the third century B.C.

The ancient city of Hierapolis, Denizli, Turkey

hierapolis turkiye

Ancient Hierapolis appears to have been founded by King Eumenes II of Pergamon and its name is derived from Hiera, the wife of King Telephos, the legendary founder of Pergamon. The city became subject to Rome in 133 B.C. In 17 B.C. during the reign of Tiberius it suffered a heavy earthquake that substantially destroyed the city, requiring it to be rebuilt. Preliminary excavations at Hierapolis were undertaken by a German team towards the end of the last century. Since 1957, excavation and restoration work has been going on under the direction of an Italian group of archaeologists.

The ancient city was strung out on either side of a long colonnaded street called the Plateia. Measuring 13 meters in width, this street ran north and south from the southern gateway to the Arch of Domitian in the north. It is paved with huge blocks of limestone. The first structure one encounters on reaching the plateau is the city baths, which are in a very good state of preservation. The baths are Roman and from the 2nd century A.D. In the eastern part of the baths is a palaestra measuring 36.13 by 52.25 meters. Immediately to the north and south of the palaestra are two big rooms that were reserved for the emperor and ceremonial use.

A large hall stretches the length of the western side of the palaestra and this was the gymnasium used by athletes. This salon led into the frigidarium from which one proceeded to the barrel-vaulted rooms of the caldarium. A small room adjacent to the large hall now serves as a museum in which works discovered in the Hierapolis excavations are on display. Since Hierapolis was principally a luxury resort town it was richly adorned with magnificent sculptures showing the influence of the Aphrodisias (q.v.) school and is well worth a visit.

The well preserved theater of Hierapolis commands magnificent view of the plain below. The original theater was located above the northern gate, but when the city was rebuilt during the reign of the Flavian emperors (60 A.D.) the theater was relocated here, and the seats from the old structure were used in the work. During the reign of Septimius Severus (193-211 A.D.) the theater’s skene was modified and richly decorated with reliefs. In 532 it was discovered that the sekene had been weakened by age and the almost daily seismic activity that takes place here and had to be reinforced.

Since the theater has been restored, it is now possible to see the friezes of mythological scenes depicting Apollo and Artemis in their original positions. Thirty rows of the seats of this theater resting against the slope have survived. Originally there were 20 rows in the lower part and 25 in the upper separated by a diazoma. The cavea was divided by eight aisles. Passing through the city walls above the theater we proceed to the Martyrion of St Philip. This is an octagonal building erected on a square measuring 20 by 20 meters. It was built in the early 5th century.

Even in its present state of ruin it is an impressive structure. Retracing our footsteps to the theater we may now examine the ruins below the theater. Near the road is the Temple of Apollo, the principal deity of the city. While the foundations of this temple go back to late Hellenistic times, the present remains of the upper structure are from the 3rd century A.D. Next to it is a cave (called the Plutonion) from which poisonous gases emerge. (According to Strabo, an ox thrust into this cave would keel over and die.

He himself experimented with doves.) The temple measures 20 by 15 meters and sat on a platform that was 2.5 meters high. Before the temple is a monumental fountain. Built during the late 3rd century A.D., the walls of this rectangular fountain are very well preserved. There was also a pool located before the fountain and the structure was richly adorned with statues and columns. The water for this fountain was brought here by aqueducts, remains of which may be seen in the vicinity of Guzelpinar and between Pamukkale and Karahayit.

East of the present museum is a Christian basilica consisting of a nave and two aisles. It dates from the 6th century A.D. Walking along the route of the Plateia (which now passes through the modern swimming pool and motel) reminds us that this main street dividing the ancient city was once decorated with colonnades, porticos, and important buildings located on either side. The street runs directly toward the city walls passing through a gateway built in Byzantine times atop an earlier fountain.

On the way is a basilical structure with two aisles and a nave whose eastern end terminates in an apse. The city walls were built in 396 A.D. and were reinforced by twenty-eight towers. Passing through Byzantine gate we come to a rather well preserved section of the Plateia. This part was built during the reign of Domitian (81-96 A.D.) and terminates with the Arch of Domitian. This monumental gateway was actually erected by Julius Frontinus, who was proconsul of the Roman province of Asia (middle western Anatolia) in 82 and 83 A.D., and dedicated to the emperor.

The gate has two round towers and three portals. Excavations are now in progress to reveal the remains of shops and houses that once lined both sides of this street. Northeast of the street between the Byzantine and Domitian gates was the agora of ancient Hierapolis. The traces of the city’s original theater may be seen above. As we follow the road in the direction of the necropolis we pass by the imposing walls of a building originally erected as baths around the end of the 2nd century A.D.

It was converted to a church in the 5th century. The huge necropolis of Hierapolis spreads out on either side of the road for a distance of two kilometers. It contains tumuli, sarcophagi, and house-shaped tombs that range in date from the late Hellenistic period to early Christian times. It is one of the most extensive and best preserved ancient cemeteries in Anatolia and a stroll through it leaves a deep and mystical impression upon the visitor, particularly on a moonlit night. The road proceeds on to the hot springs of Karahayit located 4 kilometers away.