Turkish food is well seasoned and delicious reminiscent of what many people think of as Greek food (but don’t ever make that comparison out loud!). Menus in smaller restaurants or lokantas (taverns that serve food) are often written in Turkish only, so look around at what others are eating and point at what looks good. Rice, mutton, fish (along the coast), pinenuts, eggplant, onions and other vegetables are common ingredients. Fried, grilled and smoked foods are also common.

Be sure to try hunkar begendi (eggplant with beef or lamb), izgaralar (grilled lamb or beef), pide (kind of a Turkish pizza—lahmacun was our favorite variety), the many different kinds of kebabs (especially Iskender), kofte (meatballs), ic pilav (fried rice and raisins) and kuzu dolmasi (lamb and rice).

You can often make a meal from the numerous appetizers offered, such as yaprak dolmasi (stuffed grape leaves), spicy midye (mussels), peynirli borek (cheese rolled up in flaky pastry) and stuffed vegetables. Many desserts are excellent: some are milk based, while others are baklava-type pastries.

Even if you think you don’t like Turkish Delight, try some very sweet and crammed with nuts, it’s a real treat. (Some of the names of dishes have colorful translations: Lady’s thigh is a meat croquette, and nightingale’s nest is a sherbet-filled pastry.) The produce is great; sample fresh giant cherries and figs, in particular. Excellent yogurt, used in desserts or salads, is also available.